- 1969 (MCMLXIX)
- Living
- Dutch
- Viktor & Rolf
- •Couture as performance art
- •The Wearable Art collections
- •Russian Doll (1999)
- •Meme couture (Fall 2019)
Viktor & Rolf
The Arnhem-trained duo who spent the first five years of their career showing unsellable couture as art, and then built, on that foundation, a commercially serious perfume and bridal empire.
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were both born in 1969, met at the ArtEZ academy in Arnhem, graduated in 1992, and have worked as a single design entity since. Their practice is unusual: they share equal authorship, they present as a duo in every appearance, and their collections are credited to both. The approach is, in the context of Parisian couture, closer to a visual-arts partnership than to a conventional design house.
The First Five Years
From 1993 to 1998 Viktor & Rolf showed couture collections that were not intended to sell. The collections were conceptual propositions: the Atomic Bomb collection (1998) consisted of garments padded so heavily that the models could barely walk; the Russian Doll collection of 1999 layered a single model in twelve increasingly elaborate dresses, one over the other, ending with a full ball gown. The press described them as "unsellable" but regularly reviewed them.
Fashion is the prose; couture is the poetry. We work, principally, in the poetry. — Viktor & Rolf
The Commercial Arc
In 2003 Viktor & Rolf launched a fragrance, Flowerbomb, with L'Oréal. It has since become one of the ten best-selling women's fragrances globally. In 2012 they launched Mariage, a couture bridal line. The commercial fragrance and bridal businesses, at the time of writing, fund the continuing couture work, which remains deliberately anti-commercial.
The Meme Couture
The Spring 2019 couture collection, in which each gown was printed with phrases like "No photos, please" and "I am my own muse," went viral on Instagram within a day of the Paris show. The images remain among the most-reposted individual couture photographs of the last decade. The collection was, explicitly, an argument about the recursive loop between couture and social media — which had, by 2019, become impossible to distinguish.
The duo continues to show in Paris twice a year.
Related Dispatches
Punk and Vivienne Westwood's SEX
At 430 King’s Road, in the years 1974 to 1976, a boutique began selling bondage trousers and the end of the 1970s. Neither arrived quietly.
The Rise of Streetwear: From Subculture to Runway
How a T-shirt printed in a Los Angeles garage and a logo stencilled in New York taught Paris to speak the language of the block.